Saturday, 24 August 2013

Lac des Moutons

"If that's Mont Blanc I'll eat my hat..."


START: Arc 2000
FINISH: Arc 2000
APPROX DISTANCE: 9km
APPROX TIME: 3 hours

And there it is: Mont Blanc. As we drove up out of the ski village Arc 1950 to its higher counterpart Arc 2000, the Alps' (and indeed Europe's) highest mountain loomed up in front of us. The sheer height accompanied  with its sprawling snow-covered massif makes the mountain almost unbelievable, especially as it appeared everything in between myself and the mountain appeared to be rolling hills loved by skiers. This walk is probably best if you do want a great view of Mont Blanc's southern side, as well as some beautiful lakes and pools combined with some spectacular cliff scenery.



Begin the walk at the ski village Arc 2000. From here, head southwards out of the village and along a wide dirt road. Within metres you will come to a signpost. Cross the little bridge next to it and take the following footpath, leading off the road and onto the high grasslands of the Arc area.


View this route in a larger map

Continue along this path and you will come to the first of several small lakes on today's journey. This is the Lac de Saint Jacques, a lovely little lake with some cliff scenery to its east, it is perhaps overlooked due to it being on the way to prettier sheets of water. Continue along Lac de Saint Jacques' southern edge, and then switchback up a steep path up to the brow above.

At the brow, continue along the now fairly level track. As you walk, you may notice another, smaller lake appear down to your right, its water sparkling in the sunshine. To your right you will also see a fantastic point of a mountain; this is the Aigilles de Grieve, which are an even more prominent feature on the landscape from the other side. It shows that even in amongst the ski furniture there are still great views to be had in places like this.

You will soon come to a cross roads; carry on straight ahead towards the next couple of lakes. This next part of the ascent is lovely: the entire stretch is accompanied by the rushing of a little river to your left; the sound of the water heading down stream is a good companion to have as you ascend to the next lake.

This lake - Lac de Marlou - is perhaps the prettiest of the bunch. Shallow but with a deep blue colour, the ice which surrounds the northern and eastern rim of the lake reflects into the lake itself, as do the black cliffs above. Indeed, the lake gives a certain magical quality to a scenery of slight desolation, the green spit which splits the lake in two is covered with grass and wildflowers of all colours. It is one of the prettiest alpine lakes.

Lac de Marlou from above
Stay awhile at this lake, then continue along Lac de Marlou's southern edge until you come to a further crossroads. You need to go straight ahead - you will find that the first couple of metres of the path has been taken over by a river, and as a result I would suggest going upstream a little and crossing the river where it is narrower before rejoining the path. Continue along the path, ascending up and over another stream. Just before you near the Lac des Moutons, you will see to your left a fantastic, gushing little waterfall which tumbles onto the path. A great little touch.

The Lac des Moutons itself is on the very fringes of the Vanoise National Park - you cross the park border just as you hit the lake. The Lac des Moutons is a peculiar little lake: a great headland juts out of its eastern side, and a series of watercourses appear to function beneath the water's surface - it really is quite different to any of the alpine lacs I have encountered.

The real attraction of coming to this lake, however, is not the lake itself, but the views. Stand on the hills just above the Lac des Moutons' western shore and the views are tremendous: look southwards beyond the Aigilles de Grieve and you can see the glaciers of the Sommet de Bellecote, and the towering pyramid peak of l'Alliet. Eastwards, however, is where the main attraction sits: the whole Mont Blanc massif is laid out for you in its entirety; your bottom jaw will hit the floor when you see the height and ground covered by the mountainous behemoth. It is truly a tremendous view of a monstrous white giant.

Mont Blanc
What is perhaps even better is this view never quite leaves you: as you retrace your steps back to Arc 2000 (and even as you drive down the hill back into the valley) the view of Mont Blanc does not quite leave you for some time, allowing you time to take it in.

Even on the descent, Mont Blanc is visible
This would be a great walk if it were just for the view of Mont Blanc. Combine this with great views into the Vanoise national park, beautiful alpine lakes and spectacular cliff scenery, and it makes for a fantastic walk. Highly recommended.

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