Pillar via Scoat Fell and Steeple

A varied walk encompassing many fells and sceneries in the beautiful western Lake District.

TOTAL DISTANCE: 13km

APPROXIMATE TIME: 5hrs

START: Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale

FINISH: Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale

From the Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale, you tend to feel pulled in two directions. In one direction, to the north, you feel pulled towards the delights of Buttermere and Crummock Waters and their iconic mountain scenery. In the other direction, you feel pulled towards the lofty heights of Pillar and its accompanying mountains of Scoat Fell and the fittingly-named Steeple. It is the latter we explore here. 

Ennerdale itself is a lovely starting point for a walk. Its mixture of native forest, evergreen plantation and grazing pastures make it one of the most unique and varied valleys in the entire Lake District. The lack of vehicular access also make it extremely quiet and tranquil.

A view looking up Ennerdale

Begin at the Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre, and walk west down the main track, as if you were heading back towards Ennerdale Water. As you walk along the track, be sure to keep and eye on the left of the track; you will need to take a small descending path which cuts back against the track, leading towards the river below. Take this path (it is quite muddy so take care) through the next field until you come to a bridge. Cross this bridge over the river, and continue through the next field to the forest beyond.

Crossing the wild fields of Ennerdale.

Climb the stile into the forest and you will find yourself on a wide track. In the forest you may find cattle, though they are docile and generally mind their own business. Follow the forest track east until the trees  momentarily clear on both your left and right. 

A lovely track through Ennerdale's southern forest (unfortunately you'll be leaving it shortly).

From here, walk up through the clearing on your right, running parallel with Wounded Beck to your left. This route is a hard-going one, both due to the steepness of the climb and the softness  of the ground  underfoot, so take your time.

An uninviting ascent, but persevere! 

At the head of the clearing you will hit a much more distinct path running up the hillside. The incline does not relent, however: after a short flat section as you pass the remainder of the trees, the climb becomes a significantly steep one, and time and care should be taken. As you climb, however, you can enjoy  the view of Ennerdale Water as it emerges behind you.

The view of Ennerdale Water is a constant companion as you ascend.

The climb continues for a further several hundred metres up through the heather, until you reach a wall, at which the incline levels. During this section the heather can prove deceptive in that it can hide paths, so make sure you are following a path and not walking up a ditch!

Ascending through the mist.

Persevere and soon you escape the heather and your objective becomes clearer. Continue up the fell side until you reach the wide, open ridge and the dry stone wall and path that sits atop it.

The extent of the ridge, with Haycock in the distance.

On the ridge, you can choose to take the path westwards towards Haycock, a lovely little hill with great views into Ennerdale. Instead, follow the wall eastwards and onto Scoat Fell. The climb is not harsh and you should be on the top within fifteen minutes.

The view of Scoat Fell from Steeple

Scoat Fell itself is a piece of rocky high ground on the ridge, with great views back down towards Ennerdale and towards Pillar, Great Gable and the Scafells. However, perhaps the best view from Scoat Fell is that of the outcrop of Steeple, which sits jutting out of the Scoat Fell ridge, its craggy eastern and northern edges falling into Ennerdale below. 

Steeple.

To ascend Steeple is to deviate from the Scoat Fell-Pillar ridge, but it is definitely worth it. Take care as you descend the steep path off the northern side of Scoat Fell into the dip. Follow the path round to the west side of Steeple and then briefly scramble (it is not at all technical) onto Steeple itself. From here, the whole extent of Ennerdale reveals itself to you. You also gain great views of Pillar, Scoat Fell and out to sea; on a clear day you can see the Isle of Man and the Galloway hills. After taking in these tremendous views, carefully retrace yourself back to the summit of Scoat Fell.

Ennerdale Water from Steeple.

From Scoat Fell, head along the ridge westwards, where you will come across a boulder field. Cross the boulder field (there is not much of a distinct path, so just head westwards and be sure to stay on the southern side of what remains of the dry stone wall. Soon you will come to a dip; ascend over the peak in front of you and descend over the other side.

The boulder field off the east side of Scoat Fell.

The next dip is Windy Gap. Here, you can recharge before the last ascent onto Pillar.

The descent to Windy Gap.

Pillar's ascent is a steep and rocky one, though the path tends to zigzag up the hillside, making the climb slightly easier. You can often find alternative routes leading up to the summit: as a rule of thumb stick to those which appear safest. As you scramble up the last couple of metres of ascent, you are met with a (perhaps surprisingly) flat, open top. 

Pillar from Scoat Fell.

The cairn and shelter on Pillar.

The cairn and shelter sit in the middle of this top, and from here you gain Pillar's fantastic views, one of the best in the Lake District. To the north you can see the Buttermere fells, with Skiddaw sitting to the north east and, more immediately, the craggy peaks of Haystacks and its neighbours sit below. To the east you can glimpse the Fairfield and Helvellyn massifs, and to the south lies one of the best views of Great Gable and the Scafells. To the west, on a clear day, the Isle of Man and the southern Scottish hills can be glimpsed. 

A view down Mosedale from Pillar. The Scafells can be seen at the other side of Wasdale.

Haystacks, Dale Head and beyond.

Walk over to the northern edge of Pillar's top and look down. Beneath you is Pillar Rock: a favourite of climbers and scramblers, Pillar Rock sits as a craggy point jutting out of Pillar's northern edge, and looks spectacular from all angles.

Pillar Rock.

After taking in the view, it is time to descend. From the cairn, follow the path westwards, continuing along the ridge. Walking is relatively easy; just be sure to stick to paths and do not wander too close to the ridge's northern edge. Eventually you will come to a cross roads: to the right you can take the path down to Wasdale Head; straight ahead will take you up onto Kirk Fell. Instead, take the path to the left, which descends down Kirk Fell's north eastern flanks. 

Green Gable

This path can be slippery when wet (due to a lot of wet rock) and thus caution should be made. However, it is a very pleasant descent, with great near views of Great Gable and Green Gable ahead of you. Continue downwards until you hit the valley bottom and the river. Follow this river down until you come to a track; you are back in Ennerdale. The track swings both left and right, onto either side of the valley. 

Back up towards Green Gable and Great Gable.

Take the track which swings round to the right. Very shortly you will come across a little hostel, with toilets and a nice hillside to stop and have a quick bite to eat. Once you have refuelled, continue along the track back to Lower Gillerthwaite.

The hostel.

This track has great views of its own: to the south you gain a fantastic view of Pillar and Pillar Rock, the latter appearing even more formidable than it did from Pillar's top. The view appears and disappears as you move in and out of the plantation. Be sure also to look out for the aforementioned cattle, which also like to graze in the wet meadows of the valley bottom. 

Pillar and its neighbours.

Cattle graze amongst the remains of plantation.

As you get closer to Lower Gillerthwaite, you will come across a small tearoom - give it a try if it is open. Be sure also not to follow the track which ascends up and over to Buttermere: stay on this track until you reach Lower Gillerthwaite.

The view up the valley from Lower Gillerthwaite.

This thus concludes a fantastic walk which may take you most of the day, but in that time will hopefully have gifted you with tremendous views and a variety of walking terrains. If you find yourself in Ennerdale and have time to spare, give this walk a try!