Wednesday 19 December 2012

The Coledale Round

Loads of tops and loads of views in one of the best rounds in the Lake District.


TOTAL DISTANCE: 11 miles.
APPROXIMATE TIME: 6-7 hours. 

START: Braithwaite
FINISH: Braithwaite
In the north-west of the Lake District, beyond Keswick and towards Buttermere, sit row upon row of fells, each having their own characteristics though often sharing the same ridged, jagged shape. The Coledale Round encompasses many of these fells, including some of the Lakes' most well known, such as Grasmoor, Crag Hill and Grizedale Pike. The walk itself is extremely fulfilling: every time you reach one top, there is always another round the corner, with new views and new perspectives. Enjoy. 


Begin at the small hamlet of Braithwaite, which sits on the road between Keswick and the Whinlatter Forest Park. At the time of writing the primary school in this little village allows parking in its playground for a three pound donation, so you can make good use of this if you choose.


Braithwaite from above.

From the school, follow the main road through the village westwards, up towards the Forest Park. After leaving the village, continue along the road until you reach a car park on your left - this is one of the main car parks for walking the Round and can be used as an alternative to the school's car-parking if needed. Head into the car park, and then take the footpath which leads up the hillside to the right. Now the walk begins in earnest.


On the first section of Grizedale Pike's steep ascent.

Like much of the walk onto Grizedale Pike - this walk's first objective - the path here is quite steep, despite the staircase in places. Take your time and soon the path will level out momentarily, and you will find yourself on a bracken-covered hillside with views across towards Skiddaw and Helvellyn. The path becomes quite steep again soon, and also quite muddy and slippery so make sure you are wearing boots with decent tread. 

The incline shallows off again at the next fence, allowing you a degree of respite, before becoming dramatically steeper for a long section up to the next balcony. Take your time on this section. 


A view towards Skiddaw from the Grizedale Pike track.

A very steep section indeed.

After the next brief flat section, the ascent becomes once again steeper and a lot rockier, with some sections of scrambling as you scale some of the rocks. This section becomes especially steep as you near the top. However, if you take your time and take care (particularly during the hands-on sections) you will have reached the top before you realise it.


A great view of Grizedale Pike. The ascending path can be seen on its flank on the left of this picture.

Indeed, the actual top of Grizedale Pike is relatively inconspicuous, especially given the fell's appearance as one of the Lakes' most pointed of peaks. What you come across when you reach the top is a small pile of stones marking a slight rise in the ridge which continues the Round. However, despite the humble top, Grizedale offers fantastic views: to the east you can see the Skiddaw and Helvellyn massifs, with the behemoths of Pillar and Great Gable now appearing beyond Grasmoor. To the north, on a clear day, you can even see Scotland. 


Towards the top of Grizedale Pike.

Take time to gaze at the views, but remember the rest of the Coledale Round awaits! To continue the round, continue along the Grizedale Pike ridge to the west. The walk from here to the next hill in the round - Hopegill Head - involves a fair bit of undulation, though this is relatively easy going. At the extent of the highest undulation there is a junction: left leads to the highest point on the Round, Grasmoor, which we will be visiting shortly. However, first, take the other forking track, heading north-westwards to Hopegill Head. 


Descending Grizedale Pike towards Hopegill Head (the peak on the right). Grasmoor can be seen at the back  on the left-hand side of this picture.

This path is relatively steep, though is nothing compared to the ascent onto Grizedale Pike. The  only danger is on your right: you can probably see by looking at Hopegill Head as you ascend it that you do not want to drift off the path onto the craggy drops of the fell's northern edge. However, these crags and gullies make for interesting sights, and add to the character of the most north-westerly of the hills on the Round.



Hopegill Head's crags.

The peak of Hopegill Head is essentially a confluence of four different ridges: you have just journeyed along the Grizedale Pike ridge to the east; to the north sits the Ladyside Pike ridge, heading down towards the most north-western extent of the Whinlatter forest park. To the south lies the ridge onto Grasmoor; to the west lies the ridge of Whiteside, leading down towards Crummock Water. Although the views from Hopegill Head are quite similar to those of Grizedale Pike, what this fell in fact offers is a sneaky peek down towards the aforementioned Crummock Water, a sight which is not often glimpsed by those of us who are not lucky enough to be living in western Cumbria.


A sneaky peek of Crummock Water.

After taking in the views, head southwards down the path leading to the formidable Grasmoor, the highest and furthest extent on the Round. Follow the path down into the slight dip between the four lumps of Grizedale pike, Hopegill Head, Grasmoor and Crag Hill, and then momentarily follow the path which runs parallel with the small stream. 



In the dip.

However, once you are up the first incline, rather than continuing to follow the path up to the pass, cross the stream and onto the path which follows the northern edge of Grasmoor. This offers not only the ability to create a circuit on and off Grasmoor, it also allows for a more interesting route, allowing you to reflect on the view northwards before you attention will inevitably be drawn by the views to the south and west. It is somewhat steeper, however, so take your time. Once you are on Grasmoor's whale-shaped plateau, continue along the hillside until you reach the cairn and shelter. 



Ascending Grasmoor.

On a clear day, Grasmoor offers one of the best views in the northern Lake District. Perhaps the best aspect are the views of the beautiful Buttermere, Crummock water and Loweswater and their surrounding hills and mountains (the wondrous High Stile ridge which sits above Buttermere is a particular treat). Beyond, the Wasdale behemoths of Pillar, Great Gable and the Scafells can be seen to the south. To the east, the Skiddaw, Blencathra and Helvellyn massifs stretch out in front of you. More immediately, this view from Grasmoor really allows you to appreciate the Coledale Round as a whole, with the already conquered Grizdale Pike and Hopegill Head sitting on your left, with Crag Hill and its ridge still waiting to be walked. 


A terrifically wintry shot of snow-capped Scafells, seen from Grasmoor. 



Looking towards Grasmoor's cairn and shelter.

And walked it will be. To reach Crag Hill (otherwise known as Eel Crag), take the more well-trodden southern path which runs parallel to the one you ascended. Descending this path (it is quite steep so take your time) you will come to a crossroads. The right-hand path leads onto the little hill of Wandope, which is well worth a visit if you have the time. To reach Crag Hill, continue straight ahead and ascend the path which snakes up through the heather and onto the top of Crag Hill.



The descent of Grasmoor is followed by the ascent of Crag Hill (Eel Crag).

The slight shift in geography from Grasmoor to Crag Hill allows for an appreciation of different views. The view from Crag Hill allows particularly for great views of its north-western neighbours. To the south you gain a fantastic view of Robinson's unique cliff scenery as it sits beside its smaller neighbour, High Snockrigg. The ridges of Hindscarth and Dale Head can also be glimpsed beyond. Buttermere can still be glimpsed, whilst the shift eastwards allows for a view of the southern fells of Langdale and Coniston. You also get a fantastic view into Coledale itself, lying in the basin between you and Grizedale Pike. 



The top of Crag Hill.

What you perhaps do not realise as you ascend Crag Hill from the Grasmoor direction is Crag Hill's steep cliff edges on its southern flank. These become clearer as you descend Crag Hill and onto the next fell in the Coledale Round, Sail. Given the rocky, steep nature of the path and the potentiality for mishap considering the cliffs to your right, care is much advised on what is possibly the trickiest section of the walk. Use your hands if needed and take your time. Before long you will be able to ascend the last section of this path and onto Sail. 



Crag Hill from Sail. You can see the steep descent on the fell's front edge.

The top of Sail is slightly off the path, so deviate slightly and head up to your left to reach the top and with it a great view of the crags on Crag Hill's north-eastern side which no doubt helped the naming of the fell. 



A view of Coledale from Sail.

The descent off Sail highlights some of the brilliant path-building in the Lake District. A path that  was once a tough slog at best and a scree at worst is now a snaking, zigzagging cambered path, making it much easier for the walker to descend as well as ascend. Follow this snaking path downwards towards the crossroads at Sail Pass, whilst being sure to admire the view of Derwentwater behind Causey Pike ahead. At the crossroads, continue up the cambered path and beyond onto the long ridge of Scar Crags.



A view of Crag Hill, with Sail in front, from Scar Crags.




The snaking path leading to Sail Pass and onto Scar Crags.

Much like Grizedale Pike, there is little to mark out Scar Crags other than the cairns on top of a slight raise in the ridge. This does not diminish the views, however: looking back into Coledale, you can see Force Crag Mine and can finally appreciate Grizedale Pike's own cliff scenery. Equally, the movement even further eastwards has brought new views of Robinson, Hindscarth and Dale Head. 



Scar Crags.

From Scar Crags, continue along the ridge towards Causey Pike, the last main top of the Coledale Round. The path is undulating and there is a drop to you right, but keep to the path and it is an easy walk along the ridge. 



Scar Crags from Causey Pike.

Causey Pike's top is perhaps the most impressive, the way the Pike juts out of the ridge and its relatively steep descent contrasting heavily with the almost indistinguishable tops of its fellow Coledale fells. It is also the last chance to take in the views: although you have already dropped off significantly since Crag Hill and Sail, the views of the north-western fells as well as Skiddaw, Helvellyn and Derwentwater remain visible. 



A view westwards from Causey Pike.

After you have taken in these views for the last time, it is time to descend. The descent off Causey Pike will probably take you longer than any other: the path takes the form of a section of small ledges, and you should take your time to consider how to descend from each one. There is nothing technical here, however, so even the rookie hiker can manage it. 



Causey Pike from Rowling End in the twilight. You could probably anticipate that the descent would be steep from looking at this photograph.

At the end of this steep descent, you will come to a fork in the path, and it is here you should decide how you want to get back to Braithwaite: firstly, you can carry along the ridge and descend off Rowling End, a very steep descent which you should take care on, and then follow the road back to Braithwaite. Alternatively, you can take the path down to the left, avoiding Rowling End, and then following the road back to Braithwaite. Lastly, you can take the path down to the left and then ascend over the small Barrow Fell, and then follow its ridge eastwards directly to Braithwaite. This allows you to avoid the road but you will need to climb extra. 



A last look back at the north-western fells. Dale Head and Robinson sit proudly.


Once you are back in Braithwaite, congratulate yourself on completing one of the longest (and best) horseshoes in the Lake District.

A fantastic walk with loads of tops and loads of views. If you have a full day, definitely give this walk a try!

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