DISTANCE: 7.2km
APPROX TIME: 3.5 hours
START: Le Plan
FINISH: Le Plan
If you ever go to the hub of the Pyrenees National Park, you will become swiftly acquainted with Cirques: Cirques are large basins at the head of valleys, and the Pyrenees is the place to be to experience them. If you ever go to Luz, Gavarnie or other similar towns in the centre of the Pyrenees, you'll soon know the Cirque de Troumouse (great for finding marmots), Cirque d'Estoubé, and of course the Cirq de Gavarnie, which is perhaps most famous of all three due to its spectacular waterfall. However, while from Luz or Gavanie your ability to walk the Cirques is perhaps restricted to these three, there is one more notable Cirque which is worth visiting, and it is best accessed from the eastern side of the Pyrenees. And, as we shall see, it is as every bit as beautiful as its more famous neighbours.
This walk begins at the small hamlet of Le Plan, which lies around half way between the town of Saint-Lary and the Spanish border. Park here, and walk westwards up the road. After the first switchback, a wide, open footpath emerges to your right, heading south-east, which winds up above a river below. Soon the path begins to rise, and you walk along a gorge, with the river now far below you. The path is fairly wide, however, so there is no need for fear. The woodland either side of the path is also quite dense, so you cannot see much beyond your immediate vicinity, making what is to come even more spectacular.
Eventually the trees disappear, the gorge levels into the valley and the scenery begins to open up around you. The river now runs parallel to the path, and the hills on either side part to reveal a vast expanse of green: mountain cattle graze on the grass, and purple irises sprout among the tufts. Open the gate which separates the gorge with the valley, and walk on until you will come to a fork in the road, with the left hand path continuing along the river, while the other crosses the river and traverses the hillside. Take this latter path.
The path begins fairly level, and you can enjoy the expanding cliff scenery emerge to your left. Also look out for marmots, as well as the mountain hut on the other side of the river, which is still used by the cattle herders.
Soon the path begins to rise up the hillside to your right, and it is here the aforementioned irises really blossom: they cover the hillside below and above you, turning the valley into a sea of green and deep purple. Perhaps even more invitingly is the prospect of the glacier at the head of Cirque de Barroude: every corner you turn allows for another tantalising morsel of the ice-covered mountain to appear before you. Just beyond that glacier is the aforementioned marmot haven of the Cirque de Troumouse; you are that close to the heart of the Pyrenees National Park.
If you have the legs to do so, continue into the Cirque de Barroude itself, and you will be rewarded not only with the more extensive view of the glacier (indeed, you'll be right on top of it!) but also with the Cirque's hidden secret: a lake, tucked up right against the Spanish border. If not, then there is more than enough to keep you occupied in this valley: views not only of the glacier, but of the entire cliff wall around you. Lofty peaks which sit along the Spanish border jut out above these, while the narrow gaps in between them offer a glimpse of lands not yet explored.
Take it all in, and then retrace your steps.
If there is one type of walk in the Pyrenees I would describe as "definitive," it is walks in the Cirques. While not always as spectacular as high mountain walks or more precipitous valleys, they offer a certain beauty which is integral to the Pyrenees. High mountain pastures, with marmots and cattle and flowers dotted around the hillside make them something truly wonderful. That said, the Cirque de Barroude's main selling point is its glacier, which makes for some better views than its more popular neighbours can offer. So whether it is hidden beauty or exciting landscapes you're after, this walk is a must.
Eventually the trees disappear, the gorge levels into the valley and the scenery begins to open up around you. The river now runs parallel to the path, and the hills on either side part to reveal a vast expanse of green: mountain cattle graze on the grass, and purple irises sprout among the tufts. Open the gate which separates the gorge with the valley, and walk on until you will come to a fork in the road, with the left hand path continuing along the river, while the other crosses the river and traverses the hillside. Take this latter path.
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| Mountain scenery begins to emerge the higher up you go. |
Soon the path begins to rise up the hillside to your right, and it is here the aforementioned irises really blossom: they cover the hillside below and above you, turning the valley into a sea of green and deep purple. Perhaps even more invitingly is the prospect of the glacier at the head of Cirque de Barroude: every corner you turn allows for another tantalising morsel of the ice-covered mountain to appear before you. Just beyond that glacier is the aforementioned marmot haven of the Cirque de Troumouse; you are that close to the heart of the Pyrenees National Park.
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| The glacier. |
Take it all in, and then retrace your steps.
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| A sea of irises. |
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