Lac d'Espingo (via Lac d'Oô)

A walk that could hardly be bettered. 

DISTANCE: 12.2km
APPROX TIME: 3 hours
START: Les Granges d'Astau
FINISH: Les Granges d'Astau

We are coming very close to the end of the series of blog posts covering my latest venture to the Pyrenees, and it is at this point I can look back and remember how much I've done already. Perfect picture-postcard valley walks, views from the highest mountain passes the Pyrenees has to offer, and of course the dizzying heights of the Pic du Midi are just some of the sights we've uncovered over the past few days and posts. Is it possible, I hear you ask, for any other walk to better what has already come before? This walk, up past the awe-inspiring Lac d'Oo to the cloistered Lac d'Espingo, might just do that. 



This walk begins at the peculiar little settlement of Les Granges d'Astau, which appears to comprise of purely two or three houses... and a considerably-sized restaurant. By road, the hamlet is slightly up the valley from the town of Oô, where the lake gets its name. 

From the car park at Les Granges d'Astau, follow the path southwards. This begins as a gentle walk through a grassy Pyrenean plain, where cattle and horses graze on the land. From here, the track begins to incline into long swooping lassettes (zigzags). What strikes you about this section of the walk is the sheer amount of water - little streams and rivers continually invade the path, with rills dug into the path to aid their passage down the hillside. This volume of water means there all sorts of plants growing either side of the path, and it almost feels jungle-like as you continue the long ascent into and through the forest beyond. 

Soon the track begins to level along the contour of the hillside, before falling slightly and rising again, coming out of the forest and into the valley beyond. At this point the view is already tantalising: rocky mountain scenery foregrounded by rolling hillocks; the dam (always an exciting sight for what may lay beyond) sitting straight ahead, with a refuge sat the other side of the shallow river which flows down to your right. Slightly up the path there is a bridge which takes you over the river to the refuge, but instead carry on along the left side of the river, next to the high cliffs on your left, to see what lies beyond the dam... 

Lac d'Oô

Beyond the dam lies one of the most beautiful views you could imagine. A vast expanse of water, Lac d'Oô, fills the entire valley ahead of you; at its head a huge waterfall pounds into the lake, so powerful in fact that it sounds like a fleet of industrial machinery. It juxtaposes the magical quality of the sights wonderfully. 

However a beautiful place to sit and stare, Lac d'Oô is not our destination, so follow the path to the left, around the eastern side of the lake. You will soon re-enter the woodland, with the footpath zigzagging up the hillside through the forest. The path then levels onto a terrace, and you will soon come out of the woodland to be greeted by great  views of the lake, the main waterfall and its smaller neighbours which fall from the hills surrounding the lake's western edge.  

As you walk along the terrace, you will come across two waterfalls which need to be traversing. These are stunning up close, with water pouring onto the track. It can be slippery here (and on a sunny day there is nothing worse than getting your feet wet on a walk!) so be careful with your footing when crossing these two. 

Up close with one of the waterfalls.

Soon after the second of the two waterfalls, the path once again rises into a zigzag. What strikes you about this section of the walk is again how overgrown and green everything is: wild flowers, fearns and grasses crowd the gaps between the paths and occasionally spill over onto it - it makes for a fantastic sight of colour and life. 

Wildflowers

Now onto the last section of the walk, which comprises a short set of zigzags through a corrie. This section does suffer what I like to call "Wainwright Syndrome," (after the revered walking writer, who I believe chronicled this psychological phenomenon first), where you believe the your destination is "just over the next hill" or "just over the horizon," but when you get there you realise there is still another hill, or another horizon. However, that is again partly due to the excitement of finding what might be beyond that point. Don't worry, you won't be disappointed. 

This way!

You find yourself in a secluded little valley. There are two lakes: one lies in a little corrie across the valley to south, while another (which by my reckoning would be the source of the terrific waterfall) lies down to your right. There is a small refuge offering a wealth of delicious treats, while view-wise the valley offers fantastic snowy and rocky mountains, as well as a Pyrenean pastures and a river, which links the two lakes. Take it all in, and then descend the way you came.

The Lac d'Espingo, the mountains and the refuge.

If you are ever in the Val Louron or nearby, this walk is a must. The experience of being in the secluded valley of the Lac d'Espingo and the thrill of seeing the brilliantly monstrous waterfall that tumbles into Lac d'Oô are something you have to do. Vital. 

Plo del Naou

The best excuse to go to the Col d'Aspin.

DISTANCE: 10km
APPROX TIME: 2 hours 15 minutes
START: Col d'Aspin
FINISH: Col d'Aspin

I have fond memories of the Col d'Aspin. As a child I travelled here with my parents (from Foix en route to Luz St. Sauveur) and we stopped off at the pass to take a few photographs. Returning to the car, we found it surrounded by cattle - trying to get them out of the way to get in the car, and then trying to get them away so we could reverse and get away was certainly a memory which sticks in the brain. Returning years later, the cows are still here, and remain perhaps the biggest novelty of the mountain pass which joins the eastern and the western Pyrenees. This walk is partly an excuse to come back to the Col d'Aspin, and partly a way of gaining some great views fairly easily. 



For this walk, begin at the Col d'Aspin, trying your best to avoid all of the cattle which appear to love to congregate around the carparking area (don't worry - they're docile, just everywhere!). From here, take the path heading westward into the forest. The path is steep at first, but then the incline becomes more gradual. The forest either side is dense, but the track is very clear and solid underfoot.

The Col d'Aspin, including cows.

You will soon come to a crossroad - when you do so go straight ahead, and continue along the track through the pine forest. You then come out into a clearing before entering the forest again, and then you properly emerging back into the open. This final glade has fantastic views south, back towards the Val Louron and surrounding mountains.

From here, walk up the path towards the top, then veer off through the wood onto another track. Walk along this path, which follows the contour of the hill. The benefits of walking this path are the great views north, including the Lac de Payolle below you and, if you're lucky with the weather, Pic du Midi. The terrain of this hillside is quite unique in this area, with a great abundance of heather covering the area either side of the path. 

Continue along the contour of the hill round until the Plo del Naou (the destination of this walk) is directly between you and the Col d'Aspin. While the cattle seem to love the Col d'Aspin, this little pass seems to be the grazing area of choice for lots of sheep. Much more spectacularly, this area is also a great place to see birds of prey, including eagles and griffon vultures. When I walked this recently, I was fortunate enough to see three of the latter set off from the hillside here and swoop down into the valley towards the Lac de Payolle - another fantastic moment you can find on this walk. 

The view northwards, with the Lac de Payolle in the bottom left.

From this mini-mountain pass, walk up the very steep, indistinct path up the hillside eastwards. While it starts extremely steeply, it isn't dangerous and levels towards the top. While the path is also indistinct, if you make your way towards the top you cannot go far wrong on such a grassy hillock as the Plo del Naou. 

The top itself is marked by a small cairn with a yellow cross on the top. At this point you should be careful as there is a steep drop on the southern side of the hill. 

The Plo del Naou.

Once you have taken in the views, take the path along the ridge back to where we veered off back at the glade. There is a steep drop to the right and it is also relatively steep to the left as well, so be careful. From there, retrace your steps back to the Col d'Aspin.

The Col d'Aspin is one of the places you have to go to in this area. Like the Col du Tourmalet it is perhaps better known by cyclists, but like its more famous counterpart it also offers great views for very little effort. This walk to the Plo del Naou is arguably purposeless as a result - it basically provides a walk from the Col d'Aspin, as opposed to a walk to a particular destination. However, if you do take this hike west of the Col, you're treated with some hidden moments, like spotting the Lac de Payolle or watching the vultures. A great walk from an eventful mountain pass.

Pic du Midi de Bigorre

There are some views which eclipse everything else you will see all year. Pic du Midi de Bigorre, or simply Pic du Midi to its friends, is a phenomenal mountain with awe-inspiring views. 

DISTANCE: 13.2km

APPROX TIME: 3 hours 15 mins

START: Col de Tourmalet

FINISH: Col de Tourmalet

At 2,877 metres, and set back to the north of much of the Pyrenees, the Pic du Midi towers above its neighbours in a way which allows you to see for miles and miles. On many days, you can find yourself standing at the top of the Pic du Midi and be above the clouds. If this is not remarkable in itself, the fact that there is such an easy walk to the peak's summit is. While you would normally have to get your crampons and ropes out to gain the height and vast views such as these, yet the hike up to the Pic du Midi's summit is very straightforward. What is even more remarkable than that, however, is that in 1878, someone decided to build an astronomical observatory on that very summit. This is a place which boggles the mind, a height which tightens the lungs and a climb which gets the heart pumping. Are you ready for it?

You begin at the Col de Tourmalet, itself perhaps the most iconic Pyrenean mountain pass for its position as a centrepiece fixture in the Tour de France. For this reason, the pass tends to be very busy - indeed, if it weren't for the sheer breathtaking awe of this walk I may not have recommended it; this walk is not exactly "undiscovered" by any stretch of the imagination. On the day I was there this year, the pass was not only busy with people but also with llamas - llamas! - who were skittishly darting about trying to avoid the traffic. Already it seems like we're in a different world, and the walk hasn't even begun!

Much of this walk will be spent on the long dirt road which leaves the Col on its north western side - follow this as it contours around the west side of the adjacent hillside. Even now, as you snake into the mountain and then back out onto a prominent spur, you begin to see the views westwards opening up. 



The walk along this track continues for another half an hour or so, and in that time it will veer in and out of the hillside, with a series of tunnels punctuating the long road. Thankfully, the fact that the views westwards increase and improve with every step prevent this long stretch from ever becoming monotonous.

After this stretch, you turn a corner round the crest of the last jutting spur and there it is: the shining white citadel of the Pic du Midi observatory sits atop the peak ahead of you. Take your eyes away from it and you will noticed down to your left a lake - this is the Lac d'Oncet, a popular attraction in summer only beaten by the Pic du Midi itself. And you can see why - the picture-perfect lake sits in a glacial basin, with great banks of snow skirting its northern and western edges. Follow the track above the lake until you come to the ruined buildings of the Col de Sencours, a great place to take a break before the ascent. 

Now the real work begins. The ruins are on quite a level plateau, but on the northern side the track begins to rise. Take this path, and follow it up as it takes long loops up the side of the mountain. Again, the views prevent the walk from becoming monotonous, as do the little details: at points on this stretch you enter miniature gorges where the rock was blasted away to make way for the track; big slabs now sit imposingly on either side as you ascend, and it adds to the bizarre quality of this walk. These long zigzags continue for another three kilometres, and then you will come to the next level section of this adventure, before the final push. 

This next checkpoint on your walk is the site of an abandoned hostel. The building was once the signature building on the peak, but was slowly put out of business as the observatory expanded. It gives you a great view of the observatory itself though, and the last time I was up there there were walls of snow which lined the western hillside around the hotel. Once you've taken in the views, follow the path northwards to embark on the final ascent. 

But wait! The path begins to the north of the hotel, and then swoops east as it ascends, but as it does so the hills to the north part momentarily to give you a view northwards. And what a view. There are no mountains northwards - the Pic du Midi is on the northern extent of this part of the Pyrenees, which is unimaginable given its size - but just the rest of France sprawling away. On a beautiful blue sky day, however, you will find yourself above an inversion. While you bask in the sunshine, the rest of France - the rest of the world - appears to be swamped in a sea of cloud, and it looks magical. 

The Pic du Midi observatory

And then comes the ascent. This final section is by far the steepest and the path is somewhat eroded, so take care. The path winds its way up the mountainside in a series of sharp zigzags, and only gets harder the closer you get to the top. But the glimmering white obelisk shines bright above you, and all around you are either mountains or clouds. Your heart may be pounding, your lungs tensing, your legs aching and your head thumping, but as the air grows thinner and the summit gets closer, this is one of those scarce walks where you genuinely feel like you are on top of the world. And the observatory, like Mount Olympus alchemised with the Starship Enterprise, as to this otherworldly experience.

As you near the top, you have to crawl under a pipe, and then there is just a short walk before you reach the summit. Get onto the observation deck and have a look at the world at your feet. I would describe the view, but it is perhaps better you see for yourself:

Incredible. Enjoy the views, and then retrace your steps.

And while you're doing so, enjoy them some more! This is a walk like no other - there is nowhere else I have been where I have hiked to such a height, seen such expansive views and felt such a thrill at being out and about in the mountains. While it is busy, there is only one reason for that: this is a walk which you have to do.

Cirque de Barroude

A different and exciting take on a definitive Pyrenean walk. 

DISTANCE: 7.2km

APPROX TIME: 3.5 hours

START: Le Plan

FINISH: Le Plan

If you ever go to the hub of the Pyrenees National Park, you will become swiftly acquainted with Cirques: Cirques are large basins at the head of valleys, and the Pyrenees is the place to be to experience them. If you ever go to Luz, Gavarnie or other similar towns in the centre of the Pyrenees, you'll soon know the Cirque de Troumouse (great for finding marmots), Cirque d'Estoubé, and of course the Cirq de Gavarnie, which is perhaps most famous of all three due to its spectacular waterfall. However, while from Luz or Gavanie your ability to walk the Cirques is perhaps restricted to these three, there is one more notable Cirque which is worth visiting, and it is best accessed from the eastern side of the Pyrenees. And, as we shall see, it is as every bit as beautiful as its more famous neighbours. 

This walk begins at the small hamlet of Le Plan, which lies around half way between the town of Saint-Lary and the Spanish border. Park here, and walk westwards up the road. After the first switchback, a wide, open footpath emerges to your right, heading south-east, which winds up above a river below. Soon the path begins to rise, and you walk along a gorge, with the river now far below you. The path is fairly wide, however, so there is no need for fear. The woodland either side of the path is also quite dense, so you cannot see much beyond your immediate vicinity, making what is to come even more spectacular. 

Eventually the trees disappear, the gorge levels into the valley and the scenery begins to open up around you. The river now runs parallel to the path, and the hills on either side part to reveal a vast expanse of green: mountain cattle graze on the grass, and purple irises sprout among the tufts. Open the gate which separates the gorge with the valley, and walk on until you will come to a fork in the road, with the left hand path continuing along the river, while the other crosses the river and traverses the hillside. Take this latter path. 

Mountain scenery begins to emerge the higher up you go.

The path begins fairly level, and you can enjoy the expanding cliff scenery emerge to your left. Also look out for marmots, as well as the mountain hut on the other side of the river, which is still used by the cattle herders. 

Soon the path begins to rise up the hillside to your right, and it is here the aforementioned irises really blossom: they cover the hillside below and above you, turning the valley into a sea of green and deep purple. Perhaps even more invitingly is the prospect of the glacier at the head of Cirque de Barroude: every corner you turn allows for another tantalising morsel of the ice-covered mountain to appear before you. Just beyond that glacier is the aforementioned marmot haven of the Cirque de Troumouse; you are that close to the heart of the Pyrenees National Park. 

The glacier.

If you have the legs to do so, continue into the Cirque de Barroude itself, and you will be rewarded not only with the more extensive view of the glacier (indeed, you'll be right on top of it!) but also with the Cirque's hidden secret: a lake, tucked up right against the Spanish border. If not, then there is more than enough to keep you occupied in this valley: views not only of the glacier, but of the entire cliff wall around you. Lofty peaks which sit along the Spanish border jut out above these, while the narrow gaps in between them offer a glimpse of lands not yet explored.

Take it all in, and then retrace your steps.

A sea of irises.

If there is one type of walk in the Pyrenees I would describe as "definitive," it is walks in the Cirques. While not always as spectacular as high mountain walks or more precipitous valleys, they offer a certain beauty which is integral to the Pyrenees. High mountain pastures, with marmots and cattle and flowers dotted around the hillside make them something truly wonderful. That said, the Cirque de Barroude's main selling point is its glacier, which makes for some better views than its more popular neighbours can offer. So whether it is hidden beauty or exciting landscapes you're after, this walk is a must. 

Col de Grassaz

An epic walk which can be completed in a day

START: Rosuel
FINISH: Rosuel
DISTANCE: 11 miles
TIME: 6 hours

Of all the walks i have done in the Alps this year - maybe even of all the walks I have done in the Alps full stop - there have been none quite like this. This walk feels like Alpine walking more than any other - wild, ever-changing terrain with constantly beautiful, continually surprising views.

Indeed, this is one of the definitive areas of the Vanoise National Park. From the National Park portal of Rosuel there are just so many walks: from small terrace walks and investigatory walks to the tremendous waterfalls to morning walks to the Lac de la Plagne to treks to the various mountain passes, including the Col de la Sachette and Col du Palet, both of which have fantastic views. This col, the Col de Grassaz, is the most spectacular of the bunch.



Beginning at Rosuel, take the main track eastwards, along the south side of the valley towards the valley head. Already the views begin to open up: water tumbles off the opposite cliffs in impressive waterfalls; occasionally you may see the shadows of the Lamaguire, one of the alps' resident species of vulture, stalk those same cliffs. Above the various needles and Aigilles combine to create a picture of constant turbulence yet natural harmony. If there was a definitive alpine view (and there are many competitors on this walk alone) I would probably choose that one.


View this route in a larger map


The path continues, with two forks leading on to the terrace walk above; ignore both and continue along the bottom path. The path winds up first through the valley and then up through the forest. If this were a shorter walk I could spend ages just detailing the intricacies of this section: crossing the largely dried-up river; walking up the switchbacks along the (not severe) cliff edge; and finally entering the beautiful wooded section of the walk with its dappled sunshine and lush green grass. This final section offers some relief: a brief descent in the forest follows the previous continual ascent from the car park.

The view from Rosuel

Soon the forest begins to clear, and the gradient of the path becomes quite gentle. Trees hide the views across the valley, but it is here you begin to appreciate the alpine pastures, which will be a constant companion for much of the walk. Here, the colours are magnificent: pale yellows, deep purples and tiny white flowers brighten the walk.

After this brief meadow section, you ascend quite steeply and sharply through a gully, with high hillsides on either side. When you reach the end of the gully, you leave the relatively narrow valley and its tumbling waterfalls behind, and the hills around you open up in front of you. The hillsides of Mont Pouree are up to your left, and those of the great pyramid l'Allait to your right. In front of you, meanwhile, the alpine pasture mingles with a boulder field and a series of small streams; it is as if you had passed through a portal into another world. Continue along the path as it snakes round to the left, passing a hidden gorge down to your left, its cliff faces and pounding river making for an alpine valley in miniature.

Soon you will come to a fork on the road and a signpost. For some reason the Col de Grazza does not make an appearance on any of these signposts for a long time - you will be wanting the left hand path, with the right hand path leading to the Lac de la Plagne. Follow this left hand path through the remainder of the boulder field, and soon you leave it behind for a much nicer path through another alpine meadow.

This meadow is different to others, however. The white tufts of bog cotton (which until now I had not seen outside of the Lake District, let alone outside of the UK) to your right indicate the presence of marsh, so do not drift too far in that direction. However, the path itself is not wet, and the long green grass which makes this section particularly distinctive is nice on the legs to walk on. The views are also becoming teasingly tantalising: just beyond the brow of the hill in front of you the snow covered hump of La Grande Motte rises like the sun at dawn, while the cliff scenery to your right and the glacial views to your left are reaching the peak of their splendour. Continue through this valley meadow and you will pass a series of chalets, which appear to have been abandoned for some time – a shame, given the tremendous location.

After the chalets, the path starts to rise, and it is here the fun really begins. Follow the path round the curve of the hillside, and relatively soon you will come to a small hut. Take a break on the rocks here or continue along the path and you will have a fantastic view down into the valley below you: the gorgeous Lac de la Plagne sits sparkling in the sun, its popularity indicated by the enormous (by refuge standards at least) refuge plonked on its eastern shore. Above them, the buttress of l'Alliet's neighbour (the poorly named Mont Blanc de Peisey, which as far as I can see is not  particularly white but a heck of a mountain nonetheless) sits menacingly, as if it is about to let go of the mountainside it clings to and fall onto the lake below. Up to your left, all manner of glacier sit. Perhaps best of all, along this section of the path, the marmots appear very amiable and happy to have their photos taken. For once, it is a case of being very unlucky NOT to see a marmot, rather than lucky to see one.

There are a few small rivers you will need to cross on this section. I would advise just ploughing straight through them - when I crossed them the water was not deep enough to go over the laces of my boots, so if you have conventionally waterproof shoes these should prove no bother.

As you round the final corner of the hillside, the white lump of La Grande Motte once again rises into view. You will notice that one side of the Mott has ski lifts up it, while the other is nothing but unspoilt white snow and jutting black crag, a perfect example of the arbitrariness of this national park's boundaries.

As La Grande Motte once again rises into view, you come into another alpine pasture. And it is here, for the first time, you realise you are now truly in the wilds of the Alps. The refuge and the lake, the bog cotton marsh, the boulder field, the alpine meadow, the forest, the gorge of waterfalls: all of this stands between you and the car park. A lone shepherd's hut on the far side of the valley is the closest you get to such civilisation. Cliffs now guard both sides of the valley, those on your left casting a large shadow over the rest of the valley for much of the morning.

You will not have to go far before you have to make a crucial decision. Above you, in the very wilds of the Vanoise, are three cols. The left fork in the road leads to the Col du Palet, situated straight ahead. The Col de Grassaz, meanwhile, is up to the right. All three cols are worth visiting, but if you can only go to one I suggest the Col de Grassaz:  less frequented than the Col de Palet, partly due to it not being on the Grande Randonée 5, it has (as we shall see) absolutely gobsmacking views over the other side. Ergo, take the right-hand path up the steep hillside, towards our destination.

The path moves steeply up the hillside and into the final phase of the walk. After the short, steep ascent you come into a lovely alpine pasture, the variety and colour of the wild flowers very similar to those in the previous meadow, though with the added bonus of no trees to obscure the view. To your left, a river runs into a little lake, with perhaps a herd of cattle patrolling its shore, the bells around their necks joining the sounds of the river in creating a symphony in the mountain air. Above all of this, the jagged needles of the Aigilles Noire sit proudly over their kingdom. Rise up through this pasture, overcoming the undulating drumlin landscape, and you will have just one short, sharp pull up to reach the Col.

And wow! The blackest mountain ridge, so long that it extends beyond the bounds of visibility, behind the hills either side of the Col. High monoliths compete with pointed peaks and huge bulky behemoths clamour for your attention, with the comparatively tame Grande Motte looking on despondently in the very corner of the eye. La Grande Casse, the largest and most central of those rocky juggernauts, pervades throughout. And over this hall of kings, a white blanket is draped: the glacier fills every single nook and cranny of this enormous range: indeed, I have never seen so much glacier all in one place. The Grande Casse's glacier is just like the mountain it clings to, a big slab of ice which could cause terrible destruction if it saw fit. Whether in the middle of a perfect storm or below a brilliant blue, this range of mountains would probably always look frightening and awe-inspiring in equal measure.

Pictures cannot do it justice. The Grande Casse's range and glacier extend far to the left and the right.

And then step back. The col itself is extremely safe, a grassy meadow perfect for a picnic and to take pictures of the scenery in front of you. The view behind is not half bad either: icy peaks have begun to appear behind the Col de _______, and the near mountains and Aigilles are also very impressive. But it is that view, the one looking towards the Grande Casse and its neighbours, which always catches the breath.

The view on the descent from the Col de Grassaz

Take it all in, take stock, and return the way you came, appreciating every step and every morsel of view on what is a true epic, and one which can be completed in a day.

Suffice to say, if you can only do one walk in this area, do this one. The variety of terrain, the spectacular views and the tangible sense that, for however few precious hours, you are truly "away from it all" make this walk necessary for any discerning hiker.

Definitive.

Lac des Moutons

"If that's Mont Blanc I'll eat my hat..."

START: Arc 2000
FINISH: Arc 2000
APPROX DISTANCE: 9km
APPROX TIME: 3 hours

And there it is: Mont Blanc. As we drove up out of the ski village Arc 1950 to its higher counterpart Arc 2000, the Alps' (and indeed Europe's) highest mountain loomed up in front of us. The sheer height accompanied  with its sprawling snow-covered massif makes the mountain almost unbelievable, especially as it appeared everything in between myself and the mountain appeared to be rolling hills loved by skiers. This walk is probably best if you do want a great view of Mont Blanc's southern side, as well as some beautiful lakes and pools combined with some spectacular cliff scenery.

The Serre-Ponçon Conclusion

Time to say goodbye to the Serre-Poncon area

At time of writing, I am sitting at the caravan at the lac de Saint Apollinaire campsite on a warm afternoon, having just finished our last walk in the area. Tomorrow we will be heading to the Vanoisse area of the Alps.

That walk was one last ascent to the Aigilles de Chabrières. Being the closest and most walked point in the area, it seemed appropriate to visit one last time before we leave the area.

Lac de Crachet

A beautiful hidden gem.

START: La Chalp
FINISH: La Chalp
DISTANCE: 7km
TIME: 2.5 hours

It's funny how everything fits together. If you stand at the carpark just up from the little village of a La Chalp and look south, the hillside which faces you is that of Le Meale, the focus of the walk from a few days ago. Le Meale is not the focus of today's walk, however: that is the picturesque Lac de Crachet. 

Le Col de Petite Cayolle

A beautiful walk from start to finish, with a surprise around every turn. 

START: Col de la Cayolle
FINISH: Col de la Cayolle
TIME: 3-4 hours

Well I certainly did not expect that!

Look! It's a chamois!

We are on our way to the Col de Petite Cayolle, having parked up at the Col de Cayolle, and a chamois (alpine mountain goats which are incredibly rare) hurtles down the hillside towards us. Having probably been disturbed by walkers higher up the path, the chamois charges down the rocky hillside, across a large patch of snow, then crosses the path we are watching it from, and then once on the other side appears to carry on grazing to its heart's content. A truly great - and unexpected - moment.

This is a walk that is full of surprises. The first was probably the drive up to the Col de la Cayolle itself. Approached via the Ubaye valley and the town of Barcellonette, any intrepid explorer is in for a hairy ride through narrow gorges and along cliff edges. Make sure you keep your wits about you as you ascend to the Col.

The Col de la Cayolle is in the heart of the Mercantour National Park, the most southerly of the alpine national parks. Once you reach this first pass by car, you begin to glimpse its beauty: forests and mountains meet in an area which is truly wonderful.

Pic de Morgon

Second time lucky.

START: le Grand Clot
FINISH: le Grand Clot
DISTANCE: 9km
TIME: 3 hours

Time for some unfinished business. Last year, I attempted to ascend the mighty Pic de Morgon, which, sat bang smack on Lac de Serre Ponçon's shoreline, is the closest this area has got to an iconic mountain. However, due to a mixture of bad weather and poor route choice, I ended up not making the climb onto Morgon's lofty top. Ever since, it has been staring at me from the other side of the lake, its ferocious crags mocking my failure.

However, this year is different. Parking at a different car park, with better weather and a clearer route, I shall now deliver to you the definitive Pic de Morgon walking guide.

The Coledale Round

Loads of tops and loads of views in one of the best rounds in the Lake District.

TOTAL DISTANCE: 11 miles.

APPROXIMATE TIME: 6-7 hours. 

START: Braithwaite
FINISH: Braithwaite

In the north-west of the Lake District, beyond Keswick and towards Buttermere, sit row upon row of fells, each having their own characteristics though often sharing the same ridged, jagged shape. The Coledale Round encompasses many of these fells, including some of the Lakes' most well known, such as Grasmoor, Crag Hill and Grizedale Pike. The walk itself is extremely fulfilling: every time you reach one top, there is always another round the corner, with new views and new perspectives. Enjoy. 

Pillar via Scoat Fell and Steeple

A varied walk encompassing many fells and sceneries in the beautiful western Lake District.

TOTAL DISTANCE: 13km

APPROXIMATE TIME: 5hrs

START: Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale

FINISH: Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale

From the Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale, you tend to feel pulled in two directions. In one direction, to the north, you feel pulled towards the delights of Buttermere and Crummock Waters and their iconic mountain scenery. In the other direction, you feel pulled towards the lofty heights of Pillar and its accompanying mountains of Scoat Fell and the fittingly-named Steeple. It is the latter we explore here. 

Crinkle Crags via The Band

A fantastic walk atop some of the Lakes' most iconic peaks.

TOTAL DISTANCE: 13km

APPROXIMATE TIME: 4hrs

START: Sticklebarn Tavern, Langdale

FINISH: Sticklebarn Tavern, Langdale

The first of my Rediscovered Walks in the Lake District, Crinkle Crags sits, along with its neighbour Bowfell, at the head of Langdale. This valley sits at the heart of the Lakes, and is easily accessible from Ambleside and Coniston. It is also home to the Old Dungeon Gill Hotel, which is possibly as iconic as Langdale and the fells which surround it. The fells themselves gain their fame due to their rocky scenery: Crinkle Crags certainly lives up to its name. 

Crête de La Gardette

A serene alpine pasture walk to a mountain pass and a hill with tremendous views.

TOTAL DISTANCE: 10.2km
APPROXIMATE TIME: 2hr 30mins

START: Les Gournieis
FINISH: Les Gournieis

This walk sees the return of the hamlet of les Gourniers, though rather than a valley walk the Col de la Gardette is a mountain pass at the end of a pleasant - though in places steep - walk up hillside and through meadow. Navigation can be tricky in places, but the views at the top are tremendous.